AMD Ryzen9 3950x Benchmarks

[JCoveiro]

Hi! I have some AMD 3950x Benchmarks posted at "Perpetual benchmark thread".

Here is the link:
https://www.mersenneforum.org/showpo...&postcount=789

[retina]

Originally Posted by JCoveiro

Hi! I have some AMD 3950x Benchmarks posted at "Perpetual benchmark thread".

Here is the link:
https://www.mersenneforum.org/showpo...&postcount=789

Yeah, we all saw them. Thanks.

But why do you need a whole new topic just to point that out? Is there some detail that you wanted to highlight?

[JCoveiro]

Originally Posted by retina

Yeah, we all saw them. Thanks.

But why do you need a whole new topic just to point that out? Is there some detail that you wanted to highlight?

Hi! And yes! It's just to highlight the 3950x processor. AMD deserves it!
Aswell as Threadripper details if someone has one of those.

Btw, if someone has any tips for overclocking 3950x, I'm open for some new ideas.

The max stable "manual overclocking" (for prime95) I have done was 4.4GHz@1,4v (all-core)
with Memory Clock at 1800 and Infinit Fabric at 1800 (I have DDR4-3200 memory kits, so it's a nice memory boost to 3600).
But I prefer using PBO with Memory overclock and Infinit Fabric overclock, it helps to manage the cpu temps.

Thanks for the comment!!

[retina]

Originally Posted by JCoveiro

Btw, if someone has any tips for overclocking 3950x, I'm open for some new ideas.

My idea would be to not overclock. More heat to remove, more electricity used, very little gain.

If the CPU is too slow to outpace the RAM then I think the CPU could do with some improvements.

[JCoveiro]

Originally Posted by retina

My idea would be to not overclock. More heat to remove, more electricity used, very little gain.

If the CPU is too slow to outpace the RAM then I think the CPU could do with some improvements.

Well, all I can say it's that it's a great cpu for overclocking (using a good motherboard and cooler).
I'm not using watercooling because I'm afraid of leaks.
Instead I have a be-quiet Dark Rock Pro4 air-cooler, that does a nice job.
I think with watercooling I could get even better results (that's true).

In the other way, there are some "new cooling" solutions out there like IceGiant: https://www.icegiantcooling.com/
It would be cool to test these new coolers when they're released.

[LaurV]

Water leak is a myth. Condensation is more dangerous (see my former posts, I am water-cooling for about 20 years now, and never got a leak, but with the water block outside of the house, and I mean the HOUSE, not the computer housing, the hoses go through the wall, I had more issues with the condensation in the "cool" winter nights when the temperature dropped to +16°C outside and I had +22°C in house - well I live in Thailand )

Ice-whatever which you linked is... I would not say bullshit, but yet, it is something you could buy in the future for $120 dollars if you deposit $20 right now, and which still blows all the heat inside of your case, needing additional fans (and power invested) to dissipate it out of the house (computer house). It may work for some open-air case, but all in all, quite a bad design. They invested a lot in the vapor chamber and non-conductive liquids (yes, it still has liquid inside), and yet, just a small hose and fan would do it, cheaper, and blowing out of the case. If you are worried so much about leak, use a normal liquid cooler (random link, no endorse), which you can buy for a third of price, fill it with the non-conductive stuff they claim, or use few heat pipes that you can buy for nothing on aliexpress and make your own cooler that moves the heat outside of the computer case. That small piece of hose/tube does wonders! Trust me, I am making a living of designing that stuff.

[JCoveiro]

Originally Posted by LaurV

Water leak is a myth. Condensation is more dangerous (see my former posts, I am water-cooling for about 20 years now, and never got a leak, but with the water block outside of the house, and I mean the HOUSE, not the computer housing, the hoses go through the wall, I had more issues with the condensation in the "cool" winter nights when the temperature dropped to +16°C outside and I had +22°C in house - well I live in Thailand )

Ice-whatever which you linked is... I would not say bullshit, but yet, it is something you could buy in the future for $120 dollars if you deposit $20 right now, and which still blows all the heat inside of your case, needing additional fans (and power invested) to dissipate it out of the house (computer house). It may work for some open-air case, but all in all, quite a bad design. They invested a lot in the vapor chamber and non-conductive liquids (yes, it still has liquid inside), and yet, just a small hose and fan would do it, cheaper, and blowing out of the case. If you are worried so much about leak, use a normal liquid cooler (random link, no endorse), which you can buy for a third of price, fill it with the non-conductive stuff they claim, or use few heat pipes that you can buy for nothing on aliexpress and make your own cooler that moves the heat outside of the computer case. That small piece of hose/tube does wonders! Trust me, I am making a living of designing that stuff.

Ok. So, what watercooler do you recommend? and model?
I like Corsair Series, but are there better ones?

I also applied Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut for the cpu, to keep it cool.
Maybe with liquid-metal I could better results too, but that is not recommended. :)

I'm also happy with the overclocking results. Maybe I can push a little bit more the Infinity Fabric, but it's running stable at the moment at 1800.

[JCoveiro]

Benchmark Updated with "Manual Overclocking".

[xx005fs]

Originally Posted by JCoveiro

Benchmark Updated with "Manual Overclocking".

For GIMPS I seriously recommend undervolting your CPU. I dunno how it works on Ryzen 3000 series but I think setting a manual power limit to say 90W instead of the stock 140W wouldn't drop clockspeed by a lot, and neither will it drop a lot of performance since it seems like that the 3950x performs almost identically to 3900x, indicating a memory bottleneck. It greatly improves the efficiency of the processors for any other tasks other than GIMPS as well.

[JCoveiro]

Originally Posted by xx005fs

For GIMPS I seriously recommend undervolting your CPU. I dunno how it works on Ryzen 3000 series but I think setting a manual power limit to say 90W instead of the stock 140W wouldn't drop clockspeed by a lot, and neither will it drop a lot of performance since it seems like that the 3950x performs almost identically to 3900x, indicating a memory bottleneck. It greatly improves the efficiency of the processors for any other tasks other than GIMPS as well.

I'm currently running just with PBO activated to keep the temps lower. It's not as fast as "Manual overclocking", but keeps the cpu under good temps. I also have memory and fabric overclock, because it gives a nice boost: 3200MHz vs 3600MHz. And it is stable.

It's stable at 4,2GHz@1.25v with air-cooling.

And it also runs at 4,3GHz@1.4v and 4,4GHz@1.4v. But it needs more testing.

So my safe "manual overclock" is 4,2GHz@1.25v.

[xx005fs]

Originally Posted by JCoveiro

I'm currently running just with PBO activated to keep the temps lower. It's not as fast as "Manual overclocking", but keeps the cpu under good temps. I also have memory and fabric overclock, because it gives a nice boost: 3200MHz vs 3600MHz. And it is stable.

It's stable at 4,2GHz@1.25v with air-cooling.

And it also runs at 4,3GHz@1.4v and 4,4GHz@1.4v. But it needs more testing.

So my safe "manual overclock" is 4,2GHz@1.25v.

Yes leave your memory overclocked but undervolt the core. I don't have a Ryzen 3000 series CPU on hand so I can't proof that undervolting doesn't hurt that much but it's not going to be huge. Generally even if the scaling is 100%, the clockspeed to power curve is exponential, but the performance can only be linear at best.