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Old 2011-12-02, 23:29   #34
delta_t
 
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Originally Posted by Dubslow View Post
Ignoring space issues (I've gone in with a ruler) I should be able to install/uninstall when necessary? Such as to change the motherboard or something? That's the part I'm most worried about, is flexibility to mix and match mobos and procs and computers.
Just make sure you have a tube of thermal paste before you do the swap out. Because once you install it the first time every subsequent re-install will require a reapplication of new thermal paste. The first install you should be able to use the included thermal solution they put on unless you want to put your own on.
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Old 2011-12-03, 00:30   #35
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It only comes with one use's worth of paste?
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Old 2011-12-03, 02:13   #36
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It only comes with one use's worth of paste?
It's more than that. At least a few applications. I didn't use it because I had Arctic Silver 5 on hand. I looked around just now, but couldn't find what came with the 212 to be more specific.
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Old 2011-12-03, 07:05   #37
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You want to push this baby? The serious guys lap their chip tops and heatsinks to telescopic mirror flatness...makes that thermal interface very, very thin...the thinner, without running into the active parts (heatpipe on the one side and chip on the other) the better....and I'm sure you know to push plenty of air...low resistance thermal interfaces don't matter without airflow or something else to pull the heat away...
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Old 2011-12-03, 08:18   #38
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You need a (really) flat surface, like a piece of float glass, and the sandpaper and possibly polish come from the local auto parts store -- look at their sandpaper, then look at the polishing compounds...

might be worth looking up how ATMs (Amateur Telescope Makers) can lap 2 surfaces together....
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Old 2011-12-03, 08:57   #39
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Uhhh....
No thanks. Not that crazy for GIMPS throughput. I've received enough flak as it is from my roommate about replacing the heatsink.

Last fiddled with by Dubslow on 2011-12-03 at 08:57
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Old 2011-12-03, 13:02   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kladner View Post
It's more than that. At least a few applications. I didn't use it because I had Arctic Silver 5 on hand. I looked around just now, but couldn't find what came with the 212 to be more specific.
I would say it is 2-3 uses.
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Old 2011-12-03, 16:36   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christenson View Post
You need a (really) flat surface, like a piece of float glass, and the sandpaper and possibly polish come from the local auto parts store -- look at their sandpaper, then look at the polishing compounds...

might be worth looking up how ATMs (Amateur Telescope Makers) can lap 2 surfaces together....
Hardware stores will have "Wet or Dry" sandpaper to very fine grits. I just went and looked at supplies I have lying around, but found only 800 grit. I think that when I tried lapping that I ended up with something finer, like maybe 1500. I did not go as far as getting polishing compound.

I tried this a time or two, including doing the CPU. It's not a situation that lends itself to easy before-and-after comparisons when you consider the heatsink compound break-in period. I'm much inclined to say it's not worth the trouble unless you're really pushing for that last degree of cooling.

As important, I think, is proper application of the heatsink compound. The following is a manufacturer's site, but I suspect the same techniques and warnings would apply to other brands. There are instructions for many different CPUs. The most critical thing is getting the surfaces Really Clean, including lint-free.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm
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Old 2011-12-03, 18:38   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dubslow View Post
It only comes with one use's worth of paste?
If it's one of those that has a pre-applied "pad" of paste on it it's usually only good once. But if they actually provide a tube or syringe, then you'll get a few uses.

As for doing all that lapping, I don't think it's worth it. That 2600K of yours should OC quite nicely and easily.

Last fiddled with by delta_t on 2011-12-03 at 18:38
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Old 2011-12-03, 19:22   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kladner View Post

As important, I think, is proper application of the heatsink compound. The following is a manufacturer's site, but I suspect the same techniques and warnings would apply to other brands. There are instructions for many different CPUs. The most critical thing is getting the surfaces Really Clean, including lint-free.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm
I don't have any paste and don't have the intention of buying any; this does mean though that I'll have to hunt down some alcohol to clean of the old stock thermal paste?
(And thanks for the link, that's actually rather awesome.)

Last fiddled with by Dubslow on 2011-12-03 at 19:22
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Old 2011-12-04, 02:51   #44
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Dubslow, see you in a couple of days when your machine goes down while you wait for the grease for the interface....you absolutely HAVE to have something in the interface unless you are going to lap the interface to a high and close polish and very precise, slightly convex shape, and that's significantly more than "normal" lappers talk about doing. See "Gage Block" and 'Wringing" for an idea of what I'm on about.

The lappers claim a 4-5C improvement in chip temperature. AUTO PARTS store (local Autozone in my case) had 3000 grit wet-only sandpaper in stock today, as well as 4-5 grits down to 400 and headlight kits.

To give you an idea of why getting that thermal interface thin matters, Arctic Silver claims thermal conductivity of 4-5W/(m*K), whereas aluminum can be somewhere between 150 (6061 Alloy w/ Si impurities) and 210 (Pure, soft, 1100 Aluminum, your machinist will hate you as it gums up his tools). Copper is higher than that, on a volumetric basis.

Common, Cheap Wakefield 103 grease has a thermal conductivity of about 1/2 W/(m*K). It works fine for many usual electronic applications.

AOS Thermal is my supplier of the high-tech stuff at work.
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